Surfing the Pacific... The first time

Being a kid you hear tales of the ocean being painted as a realm of immense power and enigmatic depths, teeming with unseen "creatures." Overcoming the primal fear of the “ocean” could lead to embracing it… In the form of surfing Surfing has a long cultural history beginning around the 12th century in Hawaii among the Polynesians. It has had some interesting usages since then. Such as hunting for fish, traveling between islands, and, of course, as a sport for a lot of people. When I was a kid, around 6, I was infatuated with the sport. From my parents subscribing me to the now-defunct SURFER magazine, to watching the surf teams on television during the Olympics or in person on the coast. Yet, one thing was lacking … I didn’t live in Hawaii, or in Southern California, or Florida… I lived in Oregon of all places. Oregon is the middle state on the West Coast and in the Pacific Northwest region of the states. Me...